A Sense of Yuma
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| Photos by Claire Lawton |
To be honest, the scent of old people is everywhere in this city, crammed so far down in the southwest part of the state that it's practically in Mexico or California - but not in a good way. Not unless you are 80-plus, participate in Main Street's Golden Roadrunners Dance Center, and own a gigantic RV, plenty of which we watched navigate the sad, wide streets of Yuma all day.
That's hardly the picture painted recently by the likes of Sunset Magazine and other media, both local and national (see the AZ Highways, LA Times and Chicago Tribune coverage). Suddenly, inexplicably, Yuma is the It City, instead of the armpit we've known only from the comfort of our air-conditioned car as we zip past it, to and from San Diego. The local paper, the Yuma Daily Sun, even wrote an entire article earlier this month about all the positive press Yuma has gotten lately.
We maintain that Yuma is a pit stop, not a destination. But Sunset's March issue would have you think otherwise, and in anticipation of this weekend's Lettuce Days, the city is embracing the attention and trying to appeal past the RV set to the hipsters who study travel magazines and articles.
| photo by Claire Lawton |
| Main Street in Yuma. |
In other words, rub the stone a bit. We get that. But after reading Sunset's homage to Yuma, we had a feeling there was some turd polishing going on. We headed southwest to investigate.
We visited almost all of the stores, bars, and restaurants mentioned in the two-page spread, and also took in the sights at the hotel Sunset recommended, the Coronado Best Western, and a new park.
Our advice: stay home. Yuma hosts an annual arts festival, which hopefully brings in a few more "inspirations" than we saw in gift-shop windows. And this weekend's lettuce event they're talking about might be all that, and you might even get a kick out of visiting the territorial prison (the city's typical claim to fame and inspiration for the local high school's mascot, the criminal) but Yuma was not. In fact, a better sense of the older (and much cooler) city can probably be gathered by that one Hollywood Western with that one hot actor ... made in 2007.
Let's begin with the food. The special at Lutes Casino (which has not, sadly, been a casino for quite some time) was a combination described by Sunset as "equal parts cheeseburger, hot dog, and awesomeness."
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| photos by Claire Lawton (left) and Sunset Magazine (right) |
| Lutes Casino's Especial sandwich. |
Unsatisfied, we drove around town in search of the River City Grill, another Sunset recommendation. When we finally found it (we don't think this is a neighborhood Sunset's readers would want to venture in after dark, or even in the light) the place was manicured and cute enough, by Yuma standards. The food - described in the magazine as "eclectic with the spices" - was edible. But barely worth driving a few blocks, let alone a few hundred miles. The River Wrap, the "owner's favorite," was huge and well-plated, but bland. And the promised curry flavor in the chiken dish we ordered was just okay. Blame the place's clean, yet very Pier One atmosphere for its reputation as the City's "cool" restaurant.
Past a quirky German deli aptly called Das Bratwurst Haus, we found the not-so-special arts and pottery galleries Sunset recommended that were full of pinch-pot bake ware and glaze-heavy mugs. We later wished we would have grabbed a stein before heading to the artist co-op that was so enthusiastically touted it was embarrassing. At least it occupies a retail space on the vacancy-ridden Main Street.
In fact, the only line we saw extending past a front door was outside of the Mexican consulate. And the only businesses with full parking lots were law firms (one even took over the historic United States Postal Service building). We yearned for downtown Mesa.
Sunset raved about a new park built on the old town dump, but to be honest, we'd rather let our kids run up and down the aisles of the Target just off the I-10, given the deserted slums we had to navigate to finally find the park. It's a nice amenity for locals; but again, definitely not a destination.
| photo by Claire Lawton |
We returned home dusty and hungry, plus a Brownie camera. And we did a little research and learned that last August, Sunset ran a piece similar to the one on Yuma. This one was all about the charms of Sierra Vista.
Fool us once.































