Jackie Mercandetti

"A lot of people say it's the water. It's not the water, it can be done."

New York Flavor owner Bill Olear would love the chance to make New York pizza. Too bad his cute and comfortable fast-casual eatery is too small, not to mention the fact that his lease agreement has a non-compete clause (his restaurant is next door to a Papa John's.)

But this ex-Gothamite's got some other goodies up his sleeve to bring the flavors of New York, his New York, to the good people of Surprise. Like over 25 kinds of two-handed hoagies packed with top-notch ingredients, a heavenly New York cheesecake, a New York classic egg sandwich, and (of course) egg creams.

There's even a couple of non-New York items worth making a detour for, like a crazy-good burger.

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Jackie Mercandetti

La Petite France's menu includes regional specialties, as well as crepes -- lots of crepes.

Of all the regions who have their own names for the Alsatian dish flammekueche, I enjoy the rest of France's best: tarte flambée, which translates as "pie baked in the flames."

Mm, no wonder it's so famous.

Not flambéed, as the translation would suggest, it is cooked in an oven, traditionally served as a first course or an appetizer, and oh-so lovely.

For those who wish to experience this French answer to pizza, you should order the flammekueche at the family-owned La Petite France, but don't stop there. A menu of reasonably priced regional specialties awaits, including scrumptious dishes of German-influenced Alsatian cuisine. And despite its Scottsdale address, the unpresumptuous La Petite seems to have gathered all the charms of their laid-back, scenic homeland into a single neighborhood bistro.

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Jackie Mercandetti

India Grill's cuisine leans toward the creamier, richer, and moderately spicy dishes of northern India.

"Hello and welcome to India Grill. Light or dark?"

"...?..."

"Light or dark?"

There's a first time for everything. And if you happen to have the good fortune of coming upon Tempe's India Grill, this curious question (not "table or booth") will be asked of you at dusk, alluding to which side of the window-walled restaurant the sun hasn't set on yet. (Sorry, Obi Wan, I prefer the dark side.)

And if your taste for the country's cuisine leans toward the creamier, richer, and moderately spicy dishes and cooking styles of its northern region, the comfortable and affordable India Grill may pose a second question, albeit one asked of yourself.

"Should I order the butter chicken?"

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Jackie Mercandetti

Fantastic Korean food that stays up late makes Cafe Ga Hyang a Valley anomaly.

If you have heard Korean boy-band Super Junior's Eun Hyuk promoting japchae or Park Myeong-su and Jessica of the Korean girl group Girls' Generation sing "Naengmyeon," then you have a fairly good idea of how inspiring Korean food can be.

And so it was with me, recently, on a trip to LA's Koreatown that I was inspired (to eat as much of it as I could; not to sing about it). Even more so when I returned and heard there was a spot in the West Valley that not only served up crazy-good Korean cuisine but stayed open into the wee hours, as well.

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Photo by Jackie Mercandetti

La Barquita's authentic Mexican dishes come from family recipes.

For this week's Cafe Review, New Times Food Critic Laura Hahnefeld explored the flavors of southern Mexico without having to leave Phoenix.

Hahnefeld ventured to Jose Garcia's, La Barquita (the little boat) and found an authentic restaurant that is a true homage to Mexican cooking.

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Jackie Mercandetti

The barbecue at Circle H is hickory-smoked and slow-cooked.

The neighborhood around Camelback and Seventh Avenue has another restaurant to enjoy courtesy of Arizona native Bill Sandweg. Sandweg first moved into the area with Copper Star Coffee and recently ventured into full-on food with Circle H Barbecue.

Circle H serves up a variety of meat: pork, beef brisket, and chicken, hickory-smoked and slow-cooked with Sandweg's signature rubs and sauces.

The barbecued pork is the star at Circle H, but there's still work to do in areas like the starters, says New Times food critic Laura Hahnefeld. The brisket and chicken can also be hit-and-miss.

Still, with a few tweaks and greater attention to detail, Circle H could become a new neighborhood staple.

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Photo by Laura Hahnefeld

The food of Africa is only half of the culinary equation at Fu-Fu Cuisine -- the other half is Caribbean.

To eat at Fu-Fu Cuisine on Phoenix's west side, is a journey far from the sprawling Arizona desert. The new restaurant owned by Esther Mbaikambey, who was born in Nigeria and spent her high school years in Jamaica, offers a culinary journey to Africa and Caribbean.

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Photo by Jackie Mercandetti

How can you go wrong with Cold Beer and Cheeseburgers? Well ...

One thing you quickly learn to appreciate when traveling overseas is the beauty of a large, juicy cheeseburger on a soft, warm bun. It's one of those staples that many people could, and do, eat once a week. And what better way to wash it down than with a cold beer? Unfortunately, it seems Cold Beers & Cheeseburgers may have overreached in trying to perfect what's already perfect.

Here's an excerpt from this week's cafe review:

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Photo by Jackie Mercandetti

Looks good right? Unfortunately, O.H.S.O's food and service don't live up to the hype.

O.H.S.O. Eatery and NanoBrewery, which recently opened in Arcadia, has the style part down. But beyond hanging out on the patio with a cold beer and ordering some traditional pub fare, O.H.S.O. fails to deliver.

Here's an excerpt from this week's cafe review:

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Jamie Peachey

Dessert at The Wrigley Mansion.

It isn't easy running a Valley landmark -- especially when it's a restaurant.

The task of preserving a building's heritage while making updates for a new generation of diners -- whether the changes regard the restaurant's atmosphere, menu, or otherwise -- is akin to a taste-making (or -breaking) tightrope walk for restaurateurs.

Recently, three landmark restaurants in the Valley -- the Pink Pony, Monti's, and The Wrigley Mansion -- have hit significant milestones. This week, I find out what they're doing (or not doing) to survive in today's dining scene, if the changes are working, and get some personal insight from those in charge.

Read my story this week on how the Valley's legendary restaurants keep up with the times here. Want to see some cool past and present pics? Get to the slideshow here.

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