I have two questions: When did every American male under the age of 30 start sporting a beard, and why don't I eat at Fez more often?
Jackie Mercandetti Arroz con pollo at Fex in Phoenix is sublime.
I can't answer the first of these, nor do I especially care to. But I can tell you that the answer to the second is "I plan to, from now on."
I'd stopped dining at Fez not long after it opened on Central Avenue a few years ago. The music was too loud and, although I found their pesto Caesar first-rate, I don't enjoy eating in a disco. I got my pesto Caesar salad to go, when I ate there at all. But Fez has relocated, moving into the former Portland's space just off Central Avenue. Friendly, easy service (most of it from young, bearded guys), a nice wide patio for dining, and an open indoor dining room and bar are no longer enough. Given the number of restaurants and diners opening all over town -- places with high-end tasting menus, crafted cocktails and gimmickry based on locally grown everything -- any restaurant, old or new, needs to offer some real reason to return.More »