Michael O'Dowd's Urban Vine: 24-Hour Pork Belly and Soy Bean Gazpacho
When a new spot opens in town, we can't wait to check it out -- and let you know our initial impressions, share a few photos, and dish about some menu items. First Taste, as the name implies, is not a full-blown review, but instead a peek inside restaurants that have just opened, sampling a few items, and satisfying curiosities (yours and ours).
Lauren Saria Urban Vine's pork belly is a winner.
Restaurant: Urban Vine | Kitchen | Hops | Grapes
Lauren Saria Urban Vine
Location: 2201 N. 7th Street
Open: Over a week
Eats: Modern American
Price: $15 per person
Every time we lose a good restaurant in town, it's a sad occasion. But of all the losses we suffered last year, one of the most heartbreaking had to be Renegade by MOD. The restaurant opened last May but came and went in just over six months after chef Michael O'Dowd and partner Ed Leclere parted ways.
O'Dowd's quickly bounced back and put down roots at a new restaurant in a new part of town. Urban Vine, which O'Dowd opened with business partner John Rothstein, opened its doors on May 8 at 2201 North Seventh Street in Phoenix. We're hopeful the restaurant will be doing the same type of risk-tasking, interesting cuisine we got to taste at his last venture.
Many will know Urban Vine's location as the former home of the Coronado Cafe, a longstanding restaurant in the central Phoenix neighborhood. The interior is mostly unchanged, though O'Dowd has moved the bar and added taps for beer.
Lauren Saria Gazpacho with jumbo lump crab meat.
The overall feel is an eclectic one, the kind of vibe you'd expect to get from a home built in the 1920s that's been converted into a restaurant. Many of the walls still remain, so you'll find the restaurant has numerous small dining rooms rather than a single, larger, open one. There's also an outdoor covered patio. It's not the buttoned-up, Scottsdale vibe he had going before. And that's not necessarily a bad thing.
Once you've found your seat -- someone will probably tell you that you can seat yourself anywhere -- you'll be poured a glass of water and then presented with a tray of sliced lemons, oranges, and springs of rosemary. You get to pick which of the three you'd like to add to your glass, a nice touch and a reminder of the fact that both owners come from fine dining backgrounds.
When it comes to the menu, there's a selection of "small bites" and entrees. The smaller plates include items like Queen Creek marinated olives ($7) and slowly toasted nuts and wasabi peas ($6).
We started our meal with the Heirloom Tomato and Soy Bean Gazpacho with jumbo lump crab meat ($9). The soup arrived in a blue mug with a pile of fresh crab meat on top of a very flavorful broth of tomatoes and other spices. The chunky texture, thanks to whole soy beans, might not be what you're accustomed to, but in no way took away from our enjoyment of the dish. The combination made for a surprisingly hearty starter that still manages to be perfect for summer.