Snooze in Central Phoenix Struggles to Live Up to the Hype
Whether it's a humble meal of eggs and toast or an elaborate dish of eggs Benedict and handmade pastry, breakfast really is the most important meal of the day and it's the meal Snooze, and A.M. Eatery in Central Phoenix specializes in serving -- every day until 2:30 p.m. The restaurant chain, founded in Denver in 2006, made its way to the Valley late last year, bringing with it a signature brand retro-cool design and environmentally-sensitive cuisine.
Jackie Mercandetti Snooze serves an ambitious menu that winds up feeling slighltly anonymous.
No matter when you come by for a meal you're likely to have to wait for a table at this buzzed-about spot, but is it really worth the hype?
The answer isn't straightforward. Some dishes, like the strongly recommended chilaquiles Benedict, hit the nail on the head -- while in other circumstances, the dishes can fall flat.
Here's an except from this week's review by Deborah Sussman:
Of the items strongly recommended by servers, the chilaquiles Benedict in particular lived up to the hype. The barbacoa was as flavorful as advertised -- tender and smoky, the right base for perfectly poached eggs, roasted poblano Hollandaise, pico de gallo, and cotija cheese over "ranchero sauced tortillas." But the Breakfast Pot Pie, also recommended, didn't fare as well. I love both breakfast and pot pie, but a few bites in I had to concede that this was a soulless mess. The puff pastry on the bottom was flaky but lacking in substance, and the rosemary sausage gravy, ladled over a few pieces of undercooked carrot, didn't pack the kind of punch gravy has to when it's the star of the show.
Hungry for more? Read our full review of Snooze.