Adam Brown of Noca in Phoenix on Chris Curtiss and the "Gluten Intolerance" Trend
Evie Carpenter Chef Adam Brown of Noca
This is part one of our interview with Adam Brown, the new executive chef of Noca in Phoenix. Brown, a former Noca sous-chef, was named executive chef in late January, taking the job that had been vacant since mid-2013 when former chef Claudio Urciuoli stepped down to pursue baking. Today, we hear from both Brown and Noca owner Eliot Wexler. And don't forget to come back for part two on Wednesday.
See also: 10 Best Things I Ate in February
You don't have to have eaten at Noca, the five-year-old Biltmore-area restaurant owned by Eliot Wexler, to understand what it's all about. Wexler can tell you in five little words: "Noca is about the ingredients."
Since opening in August 2008, he's made it the highest priority to procure only the best ingredients, often getting things from a single producer or purveyor located states away. For Wexler, it's not a question of price or whether it's locally sourced; it's merely about getting the best of the best and letting it shine.
And he's stuck to that mission with each of the restaurant's executive chefs.
"Whoever the chef is is the muse for the ingredients," Wexler says. "But I want them to express themselves."
Under the restaurant's last executive chef, Urciuoli, expression meant taking the menu the Italian route. And with 23-year-old Adam Brown at the helm, many diners wonder what changes they can expect. The answer is complicated, not because Brown's style of cooking is complex but because he's been been influenced by such a diverse array of talented chefs.
Evie Carpenter Kurobuta Porchetta