Bone Marrow Beatdown in Scottsdale: Searsucker vs. Pig & Pickle
Bone marrow has begun to pop up on restaurant appetizer menus all over town. If you haven't tried it yet, do yourself a favor and order it next time you see it. If you have, you know the rich, buttery flavor and smooth texture is unlike any other you've had before. As a dish, it's typically paired with crostini and a sweet component, while the bone itself, usually lamb or cow, is halved and roasted. Two of our favorite and very similar takes on the dish in town at Searsucker and Pig & Pickle duke it out to see whose marrow is the most luxe.
Heather Hoch The bone marrow appetizer at Searsucker.
In This Corner: Searsucker
Old Town Scottsdale was definitely buzzing when Chef Brian Malarkey's Searsucker came to the northwest corner of Goldwater Boulevard and Camelback Road. The menu, like the décor, is somehow both relaxed and upscale all at once. The service is definitely some of the most attentive in town. You can order kobe carpaccio, pork belly, squid, foie gras, quail and a host of other ingredients of the moment.
The serving at Searsucker is definitely generous. At $13 per plate, you get a totally sharable, yet still satisfying, portion of marrow served with onion jam and crostini. Each bite has the perfect amount of seasoning, with some portions more sweet with onion jam and others more savory with a sprinkle of sea salt. The roast on the marrow itself makes a delicately crispy outer layer with silky marrow underneath. It's the kind of ridiculously opulent dish you want to eat all day, every day.
Though we love the rich flavor bone marrow has, we know that it is pretty much the throw-away part of the butchering process. It's sold dirt cheap. While the execution of Searsucker's bone marrow was spot on, we think the price could have been cheaper for what it is.