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|Courtesy of Christopher's|
|ABC foie gras terrine at Christopher's|
Are we going all out here? Then bring on the caviar at Christopher's, where chef-owner Chris Gross sources premium Black River osetra caviar, a sturgeon species from Siberia, sustainably raised in Uruguay. It gets rave reviews from everyone who's tried it (including Ruth Reichl), and 80 bucks will buy an ounce of it, served with brioche toast, a lemon wedge and créme fraiche on one of Christopher's edible spoons.
Because caviar has become so outrageously expensive, chef-owner Kevin Binkley of Binkley's Restaurant, has started making his own fresh salmon caviar, using a light Japanese-inspired cure. At the moment, he presents a series of vignettes on one plate: the caviar spooned alongside sliced French potato wrapped in a veil of crème fraiche gelee; sprinkled atop smoky paprika-specked deviled quail egg; trailed along cream cheese-stuffed celery, topped with red onion and fresh dill (Binkley's elegant take on Ants on a Log); mounded on a thick slice of roasted daikon and piled in mini puff pastry shells filled with sour cream and salty pop beads of the cured roe. There's even a little extra caviar on the plate, topped with cauliflower foam and grated roasted cauliflower. It's a knockout dish for $19.
I'm back at Christopher's for foie gras for one simple reason. It's all over the menu. Clearly, Gross loves the stuff, offering it up in various permutations and prices. If money is no object, go with the herb-flecked, slow-roasted and seared one-pound lobe ($110), an entrée served with potatoes, carrots and other veggies, all sautéed in a bit of foie fat. Or try Gross's buttery terrine of foie gras mousse ($48), served in a Spam can as an homage to his girlfriend Jamie Hormel.
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