Growing Pains at Macayo's Family's Milagro Grill in Arcadia
Milagro Grill is a new take on Macayo's Mexican Kitchen from a new generation of Johnsons, the family who's been running the Arizona-based chain of Mexican eats since Grandpa Woody Johnson and wife Victoria founded the family business in 1945.
Jackie Mercandetti Milagro Grill's hit-and-miss dishes are about three to four dollars more than what you would expect to pay for them.
Opened in October 2012, Milagro Grill describes its cuisine as "Mexican-American fusion with European influences and a South American flair." And though the restaurant seems to have found a sophisticated home with an enthusiastic Arcadia neighborhood crowd, its dishes can be hit-and-miss when it comes to delivering on their promised flavors. That's a fact that makes the prices -- about three to four dollars more than you would expect to pay -- harder to swallow.
Here's an excerpt from this week's review:
"Great to share as a light meal paired with a soup or salad are Milagro's tacos. The half-dozen or so street-size varieties are served in groups of three on homemade tortillas. You've probably had better al pastor around town, and the flavor of the salmon tacos, perhaps due to ingredients such as Granny Smith apple and fennel, is unpleasantly candy-ish. But the short rib is satisfying, as is the colorful, veggie-friendly calabacitas made with zucchini, yellow squash, mushroom, tomato, and red onion. Most successful might be Fox's achiote-marinated chicken. The amber pieces of meat, mildly spicy and kissed with citrus, pair nicely with white bean, red pepper, cabbage, and pickled red onion."
Want to get the whole story? Check out the full review of Milagro Grill here.