Battle of the Bruschetta
For a starter that appears on practically every restaurant menu, from Olive Garden to Postino, bruschetta (broo-SKETTA) is a remarkably appealing -- and mispronounced -- dish. The concept is simple: toast a slice of crusty bread and top it with pretty much whatever sounds fresh or appealing. Yes, die-hard Italian style bruschetta fans, crostini does not have to be topped with tomatoes or tapenade to call it bruschetta.
We compared the bruschetta at two upscale casual Italian restaurants in hopes of finding one good enough to be a meal in itself.
In One Corner: NoRTH
15024 N. Scottsdale Rd. in Scottsdale
|NoRTH's bruschetta made one of us do a one-eighty on asparagus.|
NoRTH is exactly what we'd expect from a Sam Fox establishment that insists on capitalizing only part of its name. Sleek and modern, but not too trendy. Dark wood floors. Light green chairs with clean lines. Faux brick walls. Nice, but nondescript in that "upscale casual Scottsdale" kind of way.
NoRTH's Italian-inspired menu features several traditional appetizers offered at happy hour, including their classic bruschetta. Our order arrived beautifully plated -- four good-sized toasts topped with perfectly melted crescenza cheese, prosciutto di Parma and crisp green asparagus. The prosciutto was curled on top into a little flower shape. Aww.... the dish was so pretty we didn't want to eat it.
We changed our minds once we dug in, though. The toasted french bread was crisp and buttery; good enough to eat on its own. Add to that the deliciously salty-sweet crescenza. The cheese was perfectly melted, just enough to ooze slightly down the bread. No waxy texture or oiliness, two problems which plague subpar melted cheeses. The cheese was mild, but flavorful enough to stand up to the other ingredients.
"I'm not a huge asparagus fan, because of the stringy texture," said my dining companion. "But this is really good. Maybe I've been swayed over to the asparagus side."
The asparagus was indeed fresh and crispy, mitigating the natural stringiness of the vegetable. Perhaps if my friend had tried asparagus like this earlier, instead of the soggy overcooked version offered in most suburban homes, he would've liked it from the start. The prosciutto floret was a great crowning touch, grounding the entire dish with rich, salty flavor. No complaints here, other than that we wanted to order a second batch -- its just too tempting during half-price happy hour.