Battle of the Sweet Potato Fries

Stax Burger Bistro vs. Indulge Burgers & More

Good sweet potato fries are not easy to find. Making them well is like successfully solving a complex equation whose variables include salt, oven temperature, fry grease and potato thickness. This week we check out two Scottsdale burger joints where sweet potato fries are prominently featured on the menus.

In One Corner: Stax Burger Bistro
4400 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale

An order of sweet potato fries at Stax Burger Bistro costs $4.00. Sides of aioli are a quarter extra each.

Stax Burger Bistro was nearly empty Tuesday night when we walked in to test drive their sweet potato fries. A flat-screen TV behind the bar was airing the US Open and innocuous disco music bleated overhead. We were seated along a wall at a booth so tall we had to climb into it. Ikea-esque light fixtures hung above every table.

Stax calls their sweet potato fries "Sweet Pots" and they're served with ketchup and, for an extra quarter, any of five flavors of aioli: jalapeno, spicy, chipotle, honey mustard and red pepper. We asked for spicy and honey mustard.

"What do you smell?" our dining companion asked as he leaned into the metal basket of fries after they were delivered to our table.

"It smells sweet and earthy?" I replied, not exactly understanding the question.

"No, it smells fried!" he said, grabbing a fry and popping it in his mouth.

At first bite, the fries were burn-the-roof-of-your-mouth hot. They were also very thinly cut which provided a lovely crunch but negated the taste of the actual sweet potato. It was all crust and no content.

Once they'd cooled down, we were able to enjoy them more and dig into the scrumptious ailois. By themselves, the sweet potato fries were pretty good, but the aioli made the fries totally addictive and we polished off the basket in two blinks.

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