Budget Beat: Indulge Burgers & More

By Jay Bennett Thu., Jan. 22 2009 at 9:00 AM

Categories: Budget Beat

It'd been a while since I'd written about a Scottsdale in Budget Beat, so I was due. An acquaintance who lives in S-Dale suggested I hit up an upscale-esque hamburger joint on the southwest corner of Shea Boulevard and Scottsdale Road. When I found out this place had a weekday happy hour special, I jumped at the chance to go to Indulge Burgers & More.

Situated near a Fresh & Easy in a strip mall, Indulge was doing a brisk business on a recent Tuesday night. And I can see why it's popular -- for one, it's all about hamburgers, and what carnivore doesn't like the all-American treat? Also, its burgers are priced ($10, on average) so that Indulge's patrons feel as though they're paying for something special while not being too overcharged. It's got a nifty little gimmick (you order your burger as would sushi, with a little pencil and a menu to write on), and, finally, its modern décor, complete with a high marble full-service bar, feels kinda upscale and cool without being too hip for families and middle-aged couples.

The happy hour special offered cheap beer and half-price appetizers, which included sweet potato chips, garlic and Parmesan chips, fried dill pickle chips, crispy fried onion strings, and French fries. The missus and I planted ourselves at the bar -- where the hostess brought us a complimentary sample of the garlic and Parmesan chips -- and we ordered a couple of $3 Stellas and the fried pickle chips (despite our server's attempt to steer us away from them).

Fried dill pickle chips: Dipping sauce is essential.

The garlic and Parmesan chips (along with the fries served with our hamburger) were good in that "it's fried so it must be pretty good" way, but they were not outstanding. They were lukewarm, as if they'd been sitting under a heat lamp for a while, and the Parmesan tasted like the food-service stuff, not the high-quality stuff that you shave or shred yourself. The pickle chips were novel and we ate them all, but I'm not sure I'd order them again. The thick breading overpowered the pickle taste, so it tasted like just deep-fried . . . something.

As I mentioned above, the menu is what sets Indulge apart from the pack. Essentially, using a little No. 2 pencil, you "build your own burger" by checking off what you want on the menu: Do you want a 1/3 or 2/3-pound burger? How do you want it cooked? Do you want Kobe beef or certified Angus or turkey or chicken or veggie? What kind of bun? What kind of cheese (eight kinds to choose from)? Toppings (23 to choose from and the first four come included)? Condiments (14, including your standard mustard, mayo, and ketchup, to choose from)?

Sure, it's kind of fun to build your own burger and to marvel at all the options available to you. But here's the news -- and it's front page -- a good hamburger (like a good steak or fresh piece of fish) needs two things: Salt and pepper. Oh, and maybe a piece of cheese. Done.

Herb goat cheese spread, apricot chipotle, remoulade sauce, carrot strings, cranberry chutney? Just what are you trying to hide with all that stuff on your burger?

Cheddar mushroom burger: Sorry for the blur.

Anyway, we (sorta) played the game, ordering a 2/3-pound burger to split between us, cooked medium, whole wheat bun, horseradish cheddar, mushrooms, and "our burger sauce" (served on the side thankfully). The meat tasted decent, the bun was fresh and soft, the cheese flavor was not as bold as its name indicated, and the burger sauce was ostensibly Thousand Island dressing. All in all, it was a fine hamburger . . . but was it worth $11.75? That is one expensive hamburger, dear readers.

Indulge Burgers & More

10392 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale

480-998-2222