The Phoenix New Times Food Blog

December 2006 Archives

Cheers to this news

Fri Dec 29, 2006 at 12:44:11 PM
Tony Blei
The man behind (or rather, in front of) The Roosevelt: Matt Pool

Good things are happening.

Last night I met up with a bunch of friends at the brand-spanking-new downtown tavern, The Roosevelt, and we were all in awe.

"This is perfect," murmured one.

"Oh god, First Fridays here are going to be mobbed!" said another.

We all agreed that Matt Pool's new hangout is exactly what downtown needs — hell, what we need -- and that it's gonna take off like wildfire any second now. The space is a beautifully restored historic building, with high ceilings and huge windows and lots of nooks for socializing. For its second night in business, it already had a decent word-of-mouth draw, with a lot of artists from the surrounding neighborhood raving about how they could walk to The Roosevelt from their nearby homes. We couldn't help but joke about our impending nostalgia for the one night we managed to snag seats there.

Matt, of course, beamed like a proud parent. Everything seemed to be going smoothly, and people coming in the front door immediately gravitated to the sleek, dark wood bar, where Matt manned the taps for a dozen different draft beers. It only seemed appropriate to order "The Roosevelt House Beer," which was totally delicious, a frothy pint of hoppy pale ale so cold it actually had some icy bits floating on top. Turns out, it's a custom brew made by Four Peaks especially for Matt. How cool is that?

Ah, he deserves it. Have you heard about all the stuff Matt went through to open that place? He's like the poster-dude for all the cool people trying to open businesses downtown and having a heck of a time making it happen, for a number of reasons. (I wrote about it in a feature story last month; check out "Matt's Big Hassle" in our archive if you don't know what I'm talking about.) His other business is the popular breakfast joint Matt's Big Breakfast.

The full menu isn't available yet — just a selection of sandwiches, a shrimp cocktail, and the hot and salty Virginia peanuts for now. (Soon it'll include a hot pretzel, a cheese plate, ham and eggs, and kettle chips with dips, among other things.) I got to try The Norcino, a grilled Italian panini with prosciutto, sopressata, mortadella, aged provolone, and marinated peppers. It was super meaty and so filling — you could almost share one. I ate all of mine, though, because how else was I going to soak up a few pints? I also got a couple bites of The Honeymooner, a delicious bologna and cheddar sandwich that had that same buttery grilled crust as the reuben at Matt's Big Breakfast. If you're into reubens, theirs is the best one around.

Anyway, now that I've gotten you hungry and thirsty, you're antsy to know where The Roosevelt is. It's at 816 N. 3rd St., between Garfield and McKinley, on the west side of the street. (3rd St. is a southbound one-way there, FYI.) Tonight, tomorrow, and New Year's Eve, it'll be open from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m.; once regular hours kick in, it'll be open from 5 p.m. to midnight on weekdays and Sundays, 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, and closed on Mondays.

See you at the bar!

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Nerd Alert!

Thu Dec 28, 2006 at 12:02:21 PM

One of my dear friends loves to chime "Nerd alert!" in the same kind of sing-songy voice that you'd say, "Yoo hoo!" Sometimes I find myself parroting her, blurting out remarks in my best soprano.

This same friend -- a total brainiac Renaissance woman if ever there was one -- happens to love all things food and cooking, and she was gracious enough to share a very cool weblink with me, Cooking For Engineers. I'm as liberal arts as it gets, but this is a really interesting site, full of geekily obsessive information and some really fun recipes that I'm dying to try (check out the one for homemade marshmallows!).

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Get my Drift?

Thu Dec 21, 2006 at 04:33:38 PM
When I think of Drift Lounge, Old Town Scottsdale's tiki-rific late-night hangout, I think of sipping fruity, oversized run cocktails out of a shrunken-head-shaped mug. It's sort of like the bastard kid of Trader Vic, with a mod-meets-thatched-hut ambiance -- cool blowfish lamps hanging from the ceiling, groovy seating, and tikis everywhere. I love Polynesian kitsch, and the only thing I can't stand about the place is the frat dude contingent that swarms the bar.

Until now, I never really associated Drift with food, even though I was aware of their menu, a selection of retro-pupu snacks like potstickers and coconut shrimp skewers. Now it looks like I might consider eating there. I just got word that chef Patrick Karvis took over Drift's kitchen last month, and he's got 13 years of experience working for some of the Valley's culinary heavyweights, including Michael DeMaria, Eddie Matney and Mark Tarbell. Sounds like this guy's rarin' to do more than just your typical bar food... may the tiki gods smile upon him.

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So long, Cafe del Sol -- Bonjour, Fuego Bistro

Thu Dec 21, 2006 at 03:30:09 PM

Let's hope third time's the charm for the third restaurant in three years at 713 E. Palo Verde Road, near 7th Street and Bethany Home.

I just got word from Jeff Ward, the new owner of Cafe del Sol, that big changes are in store for the tiny eatery:

"We are changing the name to Fuego Bistro on the first of the month, we rolled out a new dinner menu last week, and I have brought in a new chef, Daniel Garcia. Daniel has 20 years of restaurant experience, including 15 years as executive chef of Lombardi's at Arizona Center. I have15 years of restaurant experience myself, including 5 years as a dinner captain at Mastro's Steakhouse," he writes. "My vision of this small, tucked away spot was to take the Latin classics offered here and to infuse Southwest flavors into the mix -- the final product is Latin fusion with global and Southwest influence."

Ward adds that since there are only seven tables altogether, he'll be offering personalized wine pairings, with no bottle over $28.

Cheers to that.

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Candy for fat people, beer for kids

Mon Dec 18, 2006 at 05:24:03 PM
Kids' beer: Now all you need is a pack of candy cigarettes

Here's more edible wackiness with weird packaging, this time from Fujiya Market in Tempe. Not sure which product cracks me up more, so I'll share both with you.

First, "Kodomo no Nomimono," an apple-flavored soda from Japan. The name translates to "Children's Drink," but let's face it: The resemblance to beer ain't no accident. It's pretty good, actually -- not too sweet, and sudsy just like real brew, so the kiddies can say "kampai" along with mom and pop. I had picked up a couple of 'em a few weeks ago -- they also carry a retro-looking girl version -- but this was the first time I found the drink in a can. (Real beer in a can? No thanks, pal. I love Blue Velvet as much as the next guy, but Frank Booth can keep his PBR. Fake kids' beer in a can? Hell yes!)

I also discovered "Moyaseru Ame", an entertaining "special support candy" that implies you'll be burning off the fat with every piece you eat (they recommend 3 or 4 pieces a day). Before long, you, too, can look like the winsome manga waif on the bag.

Out of all the Japanese candy I've tried -- and that's way more than I want to admit -- this is some of the absolute worst, a granular little hard candy with a half-assed peppermint flavor. There's supposed to be red pepper in there somewhere, but I can't taste it, and so far I don't think I'll drop a size the next time I buy pants. Well, maybe it wasn't a total waste of money -- after all, the candy is "a compact size in the mouth" and "herb flavor makes (me) relaxed." Good comedy value.

Fire woman: You're to blame for my sugar addiction
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Return of China Chili

Mon Dec 18, 2006 at 04:27:22 PM

I don't know if it was the alignment of the planets or total coincidence, but China Chili's back in action.

The beloved downtown Chinese restaurant's been on hiatus for the last few months, and I happened to name-drop it in my latest column (the folks who own the restaurant I reviewed are the same people who started China Chili). Now it's got a new location, and I'm guessing it's in a spot untouched by the ravages of light rail. With seating for 200 in a remodeled retail building, the place sounds like a big step up from the eatery's old digs on Central. Let's hope the menu's as good as I remember it.

There's a grand opening celebration scheduled for tomorrow morning at 9:30 a.m., with a traditional Chinese lion dance following a ribbon cutting by Mayor Gordon. Get your Chinese food fix at 302 E. Flower Street (two blocks south of Osborn) from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. weekdays (to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays), and 4:30 to 9 p.m. Sundays. Call 602-266-4463 for info.

Oh yeah, I just realized that this has nothing to do with the planets — it's Santa Claus granting my Christmas wish for more restaurants!

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Punch Your Coworkers

Wed Dec 13, 2006 at 02:20:13 PM
Have another drink, guys: Anarchy Santa Claus and the world's best introverted dart thrower share a moment of celebration

Oops, I meant to say punch FOR your coworkers.

Nothing like a delicious little drink to take the edge off after a long day on the job, and there's no better occasion than your office holiday party. The New Times editorial staff had its own present-swapping, cheese-nibbling, punch-swilling party recently, and I have to say, the two gals on our "drinks committee" did an impressive job putting together not one but two tasty punches for the event, both of which were gone by the end of the night. When I asked for the recipes, I found out that these overachievers even came up with names for the creations! Here they are, with apologies to those of you who need more specific recipes. (Just wing it!)

The Drunken Reporter
Put big chunks of ice in a punch bowl. Add one 2-liter bottle of ginger ale, and one and a half large bottles of chambord. Add fresh pomegranate seeds on the top. Drink.

Jolly Holiday Punch

Add one small jug of apple cider, 1 medium bottle of cheap brandy, 1/4 bottle of cointreau, and 1-liter soda water. Stir in 1/8 cup confectioner's sugar. Add sliced Bosc pears and sliced red apples.

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Chocoholic Not-So-Anonymous

Mon Dec 11, 2006 at 05:49:29 PM
I want candy: Who knew that chocolate goes so well with so many unusual flavors?

I don't always shop sensibly.

When I really do go grocery shopping, I break the bank. But most of the time, I have a cupboard full of edible things that don't quite add up to a full meal. Sure, I can follow a recipe -- no problem. But I'd rather wing it and use my MacGuyver instincts. Like, who knew that canned albacore mixed with a little okonomiyaki sauce tasted pretty good? Um, that would be me, on a night when I had no mayo, no onion or celery, and hell, no bread, either!

Instead, I often stock up strange, interesting products that I randomly discover -- usually ones with cool packaging, or an unusual flavor. I might have five kinds of imported cheese in the fridge, but no milk. It's totally impractical, but I can't help myself.

One obsession I've had for quite awhile is Vosges Haut-Chocolat. Vosges has a chocolate boutique on Spring Street in Manhattan, this sleek, purple-and-white shop where you can buy fancy truffles flavored with exotic ingredients like sweet curry or wasabi or Hungarian paprika. Sounds weird until you eat one -- you'll roll your eyeballs back into your head from how insanely good they are. So intense, and especially good with a cup of espresso...

Anyway, I'd found Vosges candy bars at The Counter at Kierland Commons before, but never anywhere else in town. I'd buy a couple of bars and just savor them, maybe eating one or two squares a day until they were finally gone. You'd think I could take vitamins just as religiously, but no -- only chocolate. It's health food these days, right? Mmm hmm. For awhile I even had a Vosges scented candle that a savvy friend gave me. It helped tide me through the lean days when I didn't have any chocolate on hand.

Then yesterday I found a new cache of them at Cost Plus on Camelback. Score! I can only hope this isn't just a freak thing for the Christmas season. Don't they know that I'm spending my cash on other people this month? I need a steady, year-round supply.

I just had a revelation. If I manage to get a tax return this spring, maybe I'll just sign up for that Vosges chocolate-of-the-month club...

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Coffee Saves the Day

Fri Dec 08, 2006 at 11:02:52 AM

I talked with Paper Heart owner Scott Sanders yesterday afternoon, and he gave me official word: the place isn't closing after all. Turns out, the community really rallied around the place when Sanders brought up the strong possibility of shutting down at the end of 2006. Things are looking up now. The fabulous Ms. Leslie Barton's now on board, bringing her mighty fine musical taste to band bookings, and CounterCulture Cafe, recently booted from its McDowell Road digs, just set up shop inside the art gallery/bar/performance space. Sanders says the cafe is currently open nightly during regularly scheduled events, but soon it'll be open regular business hours. Good coffee drinks and Italian sodas are a given, but CounterCulture is serving sandwiches, hummus, and pita pizzas, too. Cue that Springsteen tune "Hungry Heart" . . .

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Hungry For More?

Wed Dec 06, 2006 at 04:14:51 PM

My weekly column is just the tip of the iceberg. There's a lot to devour in this town, and with this brand new blog, readers can finally start digesting it all, bite by bite. I'll be hitting the streets for more restaurant action, special events, recipes, reviews, shopping adventures, gossip, and tasty discoveries -- all to satisfy your cravings for the good stuff. There'll be unlimited helpings, so please dig in!

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Sittin' in the Waiting Room

Wed Dec 06, 2006 at 04:14:35 PM
oprah.com
Chris doesn't give in when Gayle asks for extra toppings

"Is this pizza really that good?"
"How long did they say the wait is?"
"Damn you, Oprah!"
I couldn't help but eavesdrop a little bit on a recent visit to Pizzeria Bianco. It was a Saturday night, and I really do know better than to attempt the four-hour wait. (It used to be more like two, on random weeknights.) Problem is, once I really get a craving for something, it's impossible to shake it.
Not sure if you caught the Bianco segment on Oprah last month, but the TV queen dispatched her buddy Gayle to taste-test pizza around the country, and she gave Phoenix's landmark five stars, er, slices. I'm not an Oprah watcher, so one of my friends gave me a heads-up on the show, and I promptly set my DVR to record it. That was my downfall, I guess. After watching it a few times, I wanted a Wiseguy, and I didn't care how long it would take.
I convinced myself that if I hadn't gone to the restaurant, I would've ended up drinking wine in front of the TV anyway, so why not hang out at Bar Bianco instead? True, true. I enjoy a cheese plate and a bit of conversation with friends before dinner, so I try to incorporate that into my plans when I go to Pizzeria Bianco — you know, just enjoying the moment.
What I didn't think about, though, was consuming not one but three bottles of Titus Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel. Oops.
So many people were hanging out in the front yard, on the porch, around the bar, off the rafters. Chuck, the bartender, told me there were something like 20 people waiting outside before the place even opened at 5. I had the feeling there were a lot of curious first-timers, because I heard several people wondering aloud what the pizza tastes like, and why Chris Bianco doesn't just get a bigger place and let others man the woodfired oven. (I resisted the urge to butt in with my two cents.) There were even a couple of young women nodding off in their chairs.
All of humanity seemed to be converging on this tiny place to find out why it made national television. And for that, I completely understood the crowd, and the strange solidarity I felt with all of these people. I'm definitely not going to try a stunt like that again on a Saturday, but for one night, it was interesting in an anthropological kind of way. And yes, I got my Wiseguy fix.
(If you want to replicate the experience in your living room, you'll need a bottle or three of Titus, a few candles scattered around the room, and Nouvelle Vague's cover of the Buzzcocks' "Ever Fallen in Love" on repeat. (song link) I can't help you on the pizza front, though.)

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Get Baked

Wed Dec 06, 2006 at 04:14:28 PM
That's good enough for me: Urban Cookies' namesake snack is full of chocolate, oats, walnuts and coconut

I'd like to keep cookie baking on my pre-Christmas agenda, but just in case the marathon of holiday parties catches up with me, I have a sweet back-up plan: buy a few dozen from Urban Cookies. This hipster cookie biz has been around for a year, but it's only been a month since co-owners Brady and Shaun Breese opened up a storefront on 7th Ave, between Indian School and Campbell. The location couldn't be better (it's right in the middle of a happening strip of indie businesses, next door to Melrose Pharmacy and Phoenix Metro Retro), and the timing is perfect, too. These guys are geared up for the gift-giving season, offering cheerful packaging and even customized chocolate syrup art for customers' celebration of choice — Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, New Year's, and beyond. I'm not fooling myself that these treats are any healthier than the butter-laden batches I might whip up myself, but it eases the guilt factor just knowing that they're almost 100 percent organic.

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My Kind of Fast Food

Wed Dec 06, 2006 at 04:14:11 PM
Evil genius: Tammie Coe's irresistible Ooey Gooey cupcakes

Tammie Coe, where have you been all my life? Okay, I know you've been around for awhile, with your beautful fondant-draped cakes calling my name at La Grande Orange, and your platters of Ooey Gooey cupcakes tempting me whenever I stop by your Roosevelt shop for a latte. I know I'm not the only person who loves the idea of stopping by for a fresh-baked loaf of bread on the way home from work. But now that you sell ready-made sandwiches — two different kinds every day — I feel like a lunchtime stalker, showing up to grab a Muffaletta multiple times a week. I might be eating at my desk a lot more often, but I'm eating well.

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Tempura Time

Wed Dec 06, 2006 at 04:13:54 PM
Kobe Beef America
Gimme my Kobe

It's nice to have options. If you live or work in North Scottsdale, now you have even more: Taneko, the new Japanese concept from the P.F. Changs peeps, and Ippei Japanese Bistro, an upscale spot across from Cine Capri, are now open for lunch. Both restaurants are taking a stab at the izakaya trend, and while they're emphasizing the novelty of grilled and fried Japanese food in our sushi-centric city, true izakaya are as much about the cocktails as the comestibles. Maybe the next time you're craving steak and a martini at lunch, you could mix it up with Kobe beef and a bottle of sake instead...

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Football Foodie

Wed Dec 06, 2006 at 04:13:35 PM





Larry Fitzgerald works up an appetite


Ever wonder how pro athletes chow down? Arizona Cardinals wide receiver Larry Fitzgerald usually chats about football on his weekly Alltel Audibles podcast, but on a recent episode, he dished on local restaurants. Here's a look at his top ten favorite restaurants in town:

1. Sakana Sushi
2. Z'Tejas
3. Fleming's
4. Mastro's Ocean Club
5. Outback
6. Lo Lo's Chicken and Waffles
7. Sapporo
8. Benihana
9. Macaroni Grill
10. Cracker Barrel

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